Periodic Reporting for period 2 - New Cotton (Demonstration and launch of high performance, biodegradable, regenerated New Cotton textiles to consumer markets through an innovative, circular supply chain using Infinited Fiber technology)
Période du rapport: 2022-04-01 au 2024-03-31
The project demonstrated that by engaging the whole circular textile value chain, it is possible to recycle post-consumer waste textiles into new high-quality InfinnaTM fibres using IFC’s patented cellulose carbamation technology. These textiles have considerably lower environmental impact while fulfilling brand and consumer performance requirements. In collaboration with leading global brands Adidas and H&M, the regenerated New Cotton textiles were converted to apparel and launched to consumers in capsule collections to validate their acceptance on the market.
The main objectives of the projects were the following:
1. Evaluate and develop solutions to ensure suitable feedstock of recycled textiles for commercial scale production of InfinnaTM fibers;
2. Develop, optimize and demonstrate the textile waste pretreatment process;
3. Optimize and demonstrate the continuous InfinnaTM production process in pilot scale;
4. Design, produce and verify high performing and biodegradable activewear and denim clothing from InfinnaTM fibres;
5. Evaluate the recyclability, sustainability and safety of the novel textiles made from InfinnaTM;
6. Demonstrate the consumer interest of the apparel products based on recycled fibres;
7. Boost the circular innovation and stakeholder collaboration in the textile sector;
8. Study circular business models for bio-based textiles and develop a plan for the commercialization of IFC technology in Europe.
The main objectives of the projects were the following:
1. Evaluate and develop solutions to ensure suitable feedstock of recycled textiles for commercial scale production of InfinnaTM fibers;
2. Develop, optimize and demonstrate the textile waste pretreatment process;
3. Optimize and demonstrate the continuous InfinnaTM production process in pilot scale;
4. Design, produce and verify high performing and biodegradable activewear and denim clothing from InfinnaTM fibres;
5. Evaluate the recyclability, sustainability and safety of the novel textiles made from InfinnaTM;
6. Demonstrate the consumer interest of the apparel products based on recycled fibres;
7. Boost the circular innovation and stakeholder collaboration in the textile sector;
8. Study circular business models for bio-based textiles and develop a plan for the commercialization of IFC technology in Europe.
In WP1, adidas and H&M created specifications for the products developed in the project. The creative and sustainability strategies of both companies, initial testing data and target consumers were all factors that were considered when selecting which garment would be the most appropriate to demonstrate InfinnaTM. Special emphasis was set on designing for circularity. H&M team prepared designs for the spring season of 2024. They selected three designs based on circular design. The aim was to use InfinnaTM material with the highest percentage in woven products.
In WP2 Frankenhuis used the expertise on about textile sorting and feedstock pre-processing to supply input materials to IFC. They also carried out development on pre-processing and investigation of NIR sorting technologies. REvolve refined and expanded feedstock availability estimates using new data sources. A detailed overview of feedstock pre-processing, including costs and drivers, was also completed to support IFC’s feedstock sourcing strategy. Finally, methodologies and non-sensitive data sets were shared with the other relevant projects.
In WP3, chemical pre-treatment development and demonstration for commercially viable cotton feedstock was continued with trials on differently sourced textile waste feedstocks. Results from these trials led to specifying the most suitable raw material (mixed color post-consumer textiles) for InfinnaTM production.
In WP4, InfinnaTM was processed in industrial scale by spinning, weaving, knitting and printing. Inovafil, Kipas and Tekstina optimised the use of the material through various processes to reach the quality required by the brands. Garments to be launched in WP5 were designed, developed and manufactured for launches through H&M and Adidas channels.
In WP5, Adidas and H&M successfully launched and sold the products to consumers. The adidas digital team analyzed the launch as well as Consumer comments from the website.
In WP6 circular business models were studied to understand how business models can be used as a tool to circular transition and circular progression. Consumer acceptance towards textile recycling was also studied. WP6 also focused on sharing knowledge, co-innovation and sustainable growth. Knowledge flows in circular ecosystem have been studied. Several scientific and white papers as well as online educational material has been published. WP6 also engaged the project into policy making and e.g. two policy roundtables have been organised in Brussels.
In WP7, the environmental life cycle assessment LCA consisted of two scopes; one focusing on the cradle-to-gate production of the recycled fibres and another focusing on the full life cycle of four garments made from InfinnaTM. The results show that the production and use of InfinnaTM fibres have potential for environmental impact reductions at both scopes. A techno-economic assessment was carried out including cost assessment, market analysis, technology assessment and SWOT analysis. A social life cycle assessment was also carried out, providing insights into the potential risks of the technology and the identification of social hot spots. All these assessments suggest that the technology is ready for upscaling and feasible.
WP8 led the communications, dissemination and exploitation of the project with the objective of driving awareness, education and engagement in project activity and insights and learnings within key target audience groups. A communications strategy was implemented including e.g. website and social media channels, multiple press releases, supported the launch of the New Cotton Project products to market, ensured the project was represented in numerous conferences and webinars.
In WP2 Frankenhuis used the expertise on about textile sorting and feedstock pre-processing to supply input materials to IFC. They also carried out development on pre-processing and investigation of NIR sorting technologies. REvolve refined and expanded feedstock availability estimates using new data sources. A detailed overview of feedstock pre-processing, including costs and drivers, was also completed to support IFC’s feedstock sourcing strategy. Finally, methodologies and non-sensitive data sets were shared with the other relevant projects.
In WP3, chemical pre-treatment development and demonstration for commercially viable cotton feedstock was continued with trials on differently sourced textile waste feedstocks. Results from these trials led to specifying the most suitable raw material (mixed color post-consumer textiles) for InfinnaTM production.
In WP4, InfinnaTM was processed in industrial scale by spinning, weaving, knitting and printing. Inovafil, Kipas and Tekstina optimised the use of the material through various processes to reach the quality required by the brands. Garments to be launched in WP5 were designed, developed and manufactured for launches through H&M and Adidas channels.
In WP5, Adidas and H&M successfully launched and sold the products to consumers. The adidas digital team analyzed the launch as well as Consumer comments from the website.
In WP6 circular business models were studied to understand how business models can be used as a tool to circular transition and circular progression. Consumer acceptance towards textile recycling was also studied. WP6 also focused on sharing knowledge, co-innovation and sustainable growth. Knowledge flows in circular ecosystem have been studied. Several scientific and white papers as well as online educational material has been published. WP6 also engaged the project into policy making and e.g. two policy roundtables have been organised in Brussels.
In WP7, the environmental life cycle assessment LCA consisted of two scopes; one focusing on the cradle-to-gate production of the recycled fibres and another focusing on the full life cycle of four garments made from InfinnaTM. The results show that the production and use of InfinnaTM fibres have potential for environmental impact reductions at both scopes. A techno-economic assessment was carried out including cost assessment, market analysis, technology assessment and SWOT analysis. A social life cycle assessment was also carried out, providing insights into the potential risks of the technology and the identification of social hot spots. All these assessments suggest that the technology is ready for upscaling and feasible.
WP8 led the communications, dissemination and exploitation of the project with the objective of driving awareness, education and engagement in project activity and insights and learnings within key target audience groups. A communications strategy was implemented including e.g. website and social media channels, multiple press releases, supported the launch of the New Cotton Project products to market, ensured the project was represented in numerous conferences and webinars.
This project demonstrated and validated, that a circular value chain and business model for efficient processing of post-consumer textile waste into sustainable garments is possible to create in Europe. This will reduce the need for virgin cotton and accumulation of waste, as textile waste can be used as a raw material without compromising in quality.
The TRL levels of 1) pre-processing of textile waste, 2) textile waste pretreatment, 3) carbamation, 4) dissolution and fiber spinning, 5) yarn production from InfinnaTM and 6) Fabric manufacturing from InfinnaTM were all at TRL 5 at the beginning of the project, with a goal of reaching TRL7 by the end of the project. These were all achieved, and the achieved TRL of the fabric manufacturing was TRL8. The TRL levels related to IFC’s technology were assessed in an external Due Diligence process carried out by a renown international consulting company outside this project.
ncreasing overall resource efficiency and decreasing water consumption was proven in the trials and LCA. The project also prove that the circular textile value chain has strong potential to reduce GHG emissions in textile manufacturing as well as many other positive environmental aspects, such as minimization of land and avoiding the need for new land fill areas.
The launched InfinnaTM products were made from real post-consumer textile waste collected and sorted in Europe, blended with recycled or organic cotton, making them recyclable and 100% biodegradable with no microplastic release.
This project contributes significantly to the EU circular economy package (2018) defining that textiles must be collected separately in all Member States by 2025. by offering a solution to use collected post-consumer textile waste as raw material for production of novel high quality MMCC fibres.
The TRL levels of 1) pre-processing of textile waste, 2) textile waste pretreatment, 3) carbamation, 4) dissolution and fiber spinning, 5) yarn production from InfinnaTM and 6) Fabric manufacturing from InfinnaTM were all at TRL 5 at the beginning of the project, with a goal of reaching TRL7 by the end of the project. These were all achieved, and the achieved TRL of the fabric manufacturing was TRL8. The TRL levels related to IFC’s technology were assessed in an external Due Diligence process carried out by a renown international consulting company outside this project.
ncreasing overall resource efficiency and decreasing water consumption was proven in the trials and LCA. The project also prove that the circular textile value chain has strong potential to reduce GHG emissions in textile manufacturing as well as many other positive environmental aspects, such as minimization of land and avoiding the need for new land fill areas.
The launched InfinnaTM products were made from real post-consumer textile waste collected and sorted in Europe, blended with recycled or organic cotton, making them recyclable and 100% biodegradable with no microplastic release.
This project contributes significantly to the EU circular economy package (2018) defining that textiles must be collected separately in all Member States by 2025. by offering a solution to use collected post-consumer textile waste as raw material for production of novel high quality MMCC fibres.