Recycling textiles: from collection to retail
Textiles and fashion have been identified as priority product groups in the EU’s Circular Economy Action Plan. Textiles will have to be collected separately from 2025, yet currently less than 1 % of textile waste is recycled into reusable fibres. Without change from manufacturers and consumers, this situation will create a huge supply-demand gap. The EU-funded SCIRT project addresses this emerging problem by exploring all steps in the production chain of recycled garments.
Tools for recycling, sorting and trimming
SCIRT aims to demonstrate a textile-to-textile recycling system for post-consumer materials. This presents several challenges, notably in effectively separating textiles. According to project coordinator Evelien Dils: “One of the main challenges we started with was the quality of recycled yarns not aligning with the requirements from fashion brands. What has been crucial for this is the improved sorting and dismantling of textile waste before going to recycling and process improvements in the mechanical recycling process itself.” Different paths to recycling were tested in labs and in pilot studies. Enzymatic approaches and thermo-mechanical and mechanical methods were explored. Project partner Valvan developed two mechanical technologies for accurately sorting and trimming textiles at high speed. The Fibersort separates material based on fibre content and colour using robots and near infrared technology. The Trimclean takes the separated fibres and cuts them into small segments ranging from 20 mm to 100 mm in size. The fragments are analysed using cameras and metal detectors to remove non-fibre elements such as tags, buttons and zips.
Tools to improve circularity
SCIRT was designed to address all aspects of the production chain. This structure revealed many challenges, but as Dils says: “This really strengthened the understanding of the involved value chain partners towards the importance of collaboration beyond company borders, a crucial point in the transition towards a more circular system.” Some of the tools developed for value chain partners include the True Cost Calculator, developed to give stakeholders a clear assessment of a garment’s real societal cost, taking into account financial, ecological and social concerns. A tool for accessing criteria enabling circularity validation, available through subscription, allows users to assess data related to the circularity of a product.
Centring the consumer
Europe generates more than 15 million tons of textile waste each year. Fast fashion trends exacerbate the problem by increasing the rate of disposal and reducing textile quality. Viable solutions to the problem of textile waste must address consumer demands. The project conducted workshops with consumers and gained insight into how to motivate sustainable textile consumption practices. Consumers have concerns about the availability and affordability of recycled products, and respond well to financial incentives to recycle old clothes. Due to the prevalence of greenwashing, the need for transparency and accurate labelling related to sustainability claims is important. Technological innovations and an appreciation for consumer demands are essential, but improving the circularity of the textile industry begins with effective policy frameworks such as Ecodesign for Effective Products Regulation. Educational campaigns and the right incentives are crucial, and in the final months of the project SCIRT worked to maximise visibility of their results. From start to finish SCIRT has delivered, and in good news for stakeholders, select recycled garments will be available for purchase in brand stores by the end of 2024.
Keywords
SCIRT, recycling textiles, Fibersort, Trimclean, True Cost Calculator, fast fashion, greenwashing, circular economy