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Knowledge Based Framework for Extended Textile Circulation​

Periodic Reporting for period 1 - tExtended (Knowledge Based Framework for Extended Textile Circulation​)

Okres sprawozdawczy: 2022-12-01 do 2024-05-31

Currently textile production and use are not on sustainable grounds, and linear consumption model produces huge amount of waste. The EC’s Strategy for Sustainable Textiles aims to reverse this trend. Transformation towards more sustainable circular textile ecosystem require both new knowledge and practical development, and various technological and non-technological challenges needs to be solved. In this context, the tExtended project develops innovative knowledge-based conceptual framework for determining optimized utilization route for different discarded textile flows. It will be designed to optimise textile flows with ensuring retention the value of materials in a safe and sustainable way. We will also develop wide range of technological and digital solutions needed in sustainable and circular textile ecosystem. Our framework and solutions will be assessed by implementing a real-scale demonstrator of a circular textile ecosystem. The overall objective of demonstrator is to show potential of reduction of textile waste by 80% compared to stage before separate collection of textile waste was started. And actions needed to achieve this include reduction of industrial waste, extended reuse of textile products, and efficient material recycling of end-of-life textiles. Our multidisciplinary group of experts and actors in the ecosystem will ensure the feasibility of the model in different European regions.
tExtended work has started by building an overview on textile value chains for reduction of waste, extended textile reuse, and recycling, and visioning how those will be looking in the future (D1.2 at M18). We have also started building understanding of industrial-urban symbiosis in textile circularity with system dynamic modelling. (WP1)
We are developing digital and technical solutions for textile identification and sorting (WP2), and waste valorisation and recycling processes to be used in real scale demonstrator are developed and pre-trials conducted (in WP2 and WP3). Within MS2 (M12) we were able to show six (instead of three) processes demonstrated in lab-scale (in these two WPs). Our process development efforts regarding textile waste pre-processing are aiming for waste valorisation, for example, hygiene treatment and removal of colours and elastane from textile waste (WP2). We also actively develop textile recycling technologies including fibre mechanical, thermo-mechanical and chemical processes (WP3). Our industrial partners test and study how textile manufacturing processes need to be adjusted to enable extended use of secondary raw materials.
We have started developing theoretical basis for optimal cycling (in WP4). We have made the first version of textile waste classification system (in T4.1 reported internally as D4.2 at M18) and started determining process flow charts, decision making criteria, as well as factors to be used in optimization for Conceptual Framework (in T4.3).
To enable data sharing within circular textile system, we have determined requirements (in T1.2 and reported internally as D1.1 at M10) and specification for the data sharing infrastructure and data-driven tools (in T4.2 reported internally as D4.1 at M15). Vision of future value chains (D1.2) together with specifications of the data sharing infrastructure and data-driven tools (D4.1) were the criteria for the achievement of our MS3 which was achieved in scheduled time (at M18). Data sharing tools development have been started (in T2.1) and digital implementation and tool development for Conceptual Framework has been started (in T4.3).
Sustainability of possible utilization routes for textile was evaluated in general level (in T6.1) for basis of building Conceptual Framework using methodology adopted from SSbD (Safe and Sustainable by Design) methodology (as reported internally in D6.1 at M12). Methodology for evaluating of circularity and symbiotic readiness evaluation have been studied (in T6.2).
We are ready to start planning of the real scale demonstrator (WP5) and Social Innovation Spin-off (WP1) ahead of schedule.
We will develop solutions for 1) Knowledge based and digitally enabled circular textile ecosystem, 2) Efficient textile recovery, 3) Waste valorisation and recycling, and 4) Systemic, sustainable and safe circularity of textiles.

For ‘Knowledge based and digitally enabled circular textile ecosystem’ (Impact pathway 1) we study utilization of data for circular textile ecosystem and reverse value chains and develop and test data sharing infrastructure. Preliminary results obtained so far include, for example, draft of classification system for discarded textiles to be used in building conceptual framework, and determination of data requirements and specifications for tExtended data sharing infrastructure.

‘Efficient textile recovery’ (Impact pathway 2) is supported by development of novel sensing technologies for material identification for automated sorting and fibre quality analysis, and textile waste pre-processing methods. Process development is on-going for waste recovery and waste valorisation processes namely for identification, sorting, hygienisation treatment, as well as removal of colours, elastane, and PVC from textile waste.

For ‘Waste valorisation and recycling’ (Impact pathway 3) we focus on high value textile recycling options instead of down-cycling for all types on textile material. Process development is on-going for fibre mechanical and soft mechanical recycling, thermo-mechanical recycling with polymer property valorisation, separation and recycling of cotton-polyester mixtures, as well as chemical recycling of synthetic fibres.

Main solution for ‘Systemic, sustainable and safe circularity of textiles’ (Impact pathway 4) will be coming through knowledge-based blueprint as systemic approach to ensure optimized utilization for mixed discarded textiles. We have published our vision of future value chain (D1.2) containing a discussion of how circular R-strategies mean in practise in textile ecosystem. Preliminary results obtained so far include, for example, adoption of SSbD methodology for comparison of environmental impacts of different textile waste utilization routes.